The Best Pupusa Place in LA Is Some Lady’s Backyard
The national food of El Salvador is the pupusa, and there’s no better way to personify the humble culture. The best pupusas I’ve had, in El Salvador or in the States, have usually been in some kind of covered outdoor setting: on a someone’s patio listening to rain tapping on a corrugated tin awning, or sitting at a long table with strangers, picnic-style, under a canopy or other kind of pavilion-like structure. I’m not sure why that is. This is what makes eating pupusas at Backyard Pupusas, a modest set-up in South L.A., the magically informal experience it is.